Northern Vietnam
Northern Vietnam
Hanoi
A thousand-year-old capital that still runs on plastic stools, motorbike horns and the smell of charcoal — and the natural first stop for the north.
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What to Eat in Sapa: Mountain Food, Explained
Sapa eats nothing like Hanoi. It is cold-weather mountain cooking: offal stew from the market towns, small free-range pork, black chicken, salmon farmed in stream water, and a night market that runs on charcoal.
27 August 20267 min read
What to Eat in Ninh Binh: Goat, Rice Crust, Snails
Ninh Binh's food comes straight off its limestone: goats grazed on the karst, snails from the rock crevices, and a crisp fried rice crust served under a thick sauce. Here is what to order, when it is in season, and how to avoid the coach-party restaurants.
27 August 20265 min read
What to Eat in Ha Long Bay: Squid Cake and Seafood
Ha Long eats like the fishing region it is: fried squid cake for breakfast, clams you will not find further south, and shellfish sold by the kilo. Here is what to order, where to order it, and how to avoid the tourist-price trap.
27 August 20268 min read
What to Eat in Ha Giang: Highland Food Explained
Highland cooking is a different cuisine from the one you ate in Hanoi: more smoke, corn and offal, built for cold mornings outdoors. Here are the Ha Giang dishes worth ordering, what each one actually is, and where on the loop to find them.
27 August 20266 min read
What to Eat in Cat Ba, and How to Order It
Cat Ba food is fresh seafood cooked simply, which means the meal lives or dies on how you order. Here are the dishes worth your appetite and the four-step routine that keeps the bill sane.
27 August 20266 min read