
Cat Ba Island
The largest island in the Ha Long archipelago, with a national park, a climbing scene and the beaches Ha Long Bay does not have.
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The largest island in the Ha Long archipelago, with a national park, a climbing scene and the beaches Ha Long Bay does not have.

Vietnam's largest island, in the Gulf of Thailand: white-sand beaches, a national park over half its area, and a dry season while the mainland is wet.
Ba Be is one of the few places in the northern mountains you can organize without a tour, a motorbike license or any trekking experience. The awkward part is that the information is scattered and most homestays are not on the big booking sites.
Search the big booking sites for the lake and you will find almost nothing, which alarms people. The reason is simple: nearly every bed here is in a Tay family's stilt house, and most of those take reservations by phone.
Three days is the length that makes the long drive north from Hanoi worth taking. This plan gives the first afternoon and the last morning to the road, and hands the whole middle day to the boat route through Puong Cave.
September to November is the honest answer: dry skies, clear water and mist on the lake at dawn. But every season here delivers a different lake, and the waterfall is at its most impressive in the months everyone tells you to avoid.
The drive from Hanoi eats ten to twelve hours of your trip before you have seen anything, which rules out the day trip most people first consider. Here is the arithmetic on two, three and four days, and where the lake fits in a two-week Vietnam route.
The boat route through Puong Cave is the headline, but the park also holds a waterfall, an undeveloped cave, forest trails and three Tay villages on the shore. Here is what is worth your time and the order to take it in.
There are no restaurants worth the name around the lake. Dinner happens on the wooden floor of a Tay stilt house, cooked by the family you are staying with, and it is one of the best meals in northern Vietnam if you order it in advance.
Cat Ba is not just a beach island. Lan Ha Bay, a national park, a floating fishing village and an old clifftop fort sit within a few kilometers of each other, so the real skill is matching them to the days you have.