
Banh Beo: Hue's Tiny Steamed Rice Cakes
Thumb-sized saucers of steamed rice batter topped with dried shrimp floss and pork cracklings, eaten a dozen at a time in Hue with sweet fish sauce.
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Thumb-sized saucers of steamed rice batter topped with dried shrimp floss and pork cracklings, eaten a dozen at a time in Hue with sweet fish sauce.

A turmeric-yellow rice flour crepe the size of a dinner plate, fried crisp with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts, then torn up and wrapped in herbs.
Hai Phong's signature bowl: crisp fried fish and springy fish cake in a sour, chili-red broth with rice vermicelli, eaten at any hour of the day.

A tart, tomato-red noodle soup built on freshwater paddy crab, with clouds of crab curd, fried tofu and a basket of raw herbs. Hanoi's classic morning bowl.
Turmeric-marinated fish grilled, then finished in a pan of hot fat at your table with a bale of dill, eaten over rice noodles with peanuts and shrimp paste.
Cold rice tossed with tiny river clams, pork cracklings, peanuts, crushed crackers, herbs and fiery shrimp paste, with a bowl of hot clam broth on the side.
Fresh, unfried rolls of shrimp, pork, noodles and herbs in translucent rice paper, dipped in a thick peanut and fermented soybean sauce.
A clear, sweet pork and dried seafood broth over springy noodles, loaded with shrimp, minced pork, quail eggs and offal. Ho Chi Minh City's breakfast of choice.
Wide turmeric-yellow rice noodles under just enough intense broth to coat them, topped with shrimp, chicken, peanuts and a shard of sesame rice cracker.
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Hai Phong is the best eating city in northern Vietnam and almost no foreign traveler stops for it. The dishes are spicier than Hanoi's, heavier on shellfish, and sold by stalls that open for a few hours and then shut.
The food here belongs to the Thai people of the northwest uplands, not to the Vietnam of pho and banh mi: charcoal grills, a numbing mountain pepper, sticky rice steamed in wood, and smoked buffalo. This is what each dish is and how to order it.
There is almost nothing to eat at the falls themselves, so the real question is what to eat in the region around them. Border cooking: rice rolls in bone broth, cold sour noodles, seven-spice roast duck and a chestnut people drive a long way for.
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