Da Nang is where almost every trip to central Vietnam begins, because it has the airport and the trains. It is also, unusually for Vietnam, a city that has been comprehensively planned — wide riverside boulevards, a row of sculptural bridges, and a long, clean beach that runs unbroken from the city out towards Hoi An. It is not old and it is not picturesque in the way Hoi An or Hue are; what it offers is a very comfortable base with genuine sights within half an hour in three directions.
My Khe beach is the obvious one, and it is genuinely good: broad, sandy, gently shelving and lined with cafes rather than a wall of resorts. North of the city, the Son Tra peninsula rises out of the sea in a forested hump, with a coast road, a giant Lady Buddha statue and troops of endangered red-shanked douc langurs in the canopy. South, the Marble Mountains are five limestone outcrops honeycombed with caves and Buddhist shrines.
Inland and up, Ba Na Hills is the country's most photographed modern attraction: a French-themed hilltop resort reached by a record-length cable car, where the Golden Bridge is held up by two enormous stone hands. It is entirely artificial and utterly crowded, and it is also spectacular in the right light. And north of the city the Hai Van Pass climbs to a col with a view down both coasts, on what is probably the most famous stretch of road in Vietnam.